Women Making Waves
Trailblazing Surfers In and Out of the Water
(Sprache: Englisch)
A visually stunning exploration of female surfers from around the world, with profiles of 25 inspiring women and 250 photos showcasing their favorite breaks, boards, and lifestyles. Women Making Waves is a visual celebration of surfing as seen through the...
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A visually stunning exploration of female surfers from around the world, with profiles of 25 inspiring women and 250 photos showcasing their favorite breaks, boards, and lifestyles. Women Making Waves is a visual celebration of surfing as seen through the eyes of women from the United States, Sri Lanka, South Africa, Australia, and beyond. It features twenty-five women who are breaking new ground in the worlds of surfing, environmental protection, and their own professions, inviting you to come along with them at dawn patrol at their favorite wave breaks. Through candid interviews on the challenges and rewards of a life spent surfing and immersive photography featuring the surfers in their homes and at their local spots, Lara Einzig aims to inspire the next generation of women to take to the water.
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IntroductionI was born and raised on the East Coast of Australia, where endless summers were spent at the beach with an extended clan of cousins, aunts, uncles, and grandparents. We were the typical Aussie beach family a large, rambunctious crew of groms, all salty hair, deep tans, weather-beaten feet that hadn t seen shoes in weeks, zinc-smeared faces in Day-Glo colors, faded togs, frothing for our next adventure in the waves.
We were kids of the Slip-Slop-Slap generation, the iconic sun protection ad campaign that was drilled into every Aussie s consciousness from a young age slip on a shirt, slop on sunscreen, and slap on a hat! While my male cousins surfed shortboards at a rather perilous and unpredictable beach break at Warana on the Sunshine Coast of Queensland, my sisters and I would happily boogie board and swim alongside them for hours on end. Back then, it seemed like surfing wasn t really for girls. The only surfer girls I ever saw were the pros on TV Layne Beachley, Wendy Botha, Pam Burridge, Lisa Andersen. And although I was a fully fledged waterbaby having successfully navigated my way through almost every water sport available, I had accepted that surfing was out of reach, not for me a boy s thing.
It was only many years later, after a twelve-year career in London s fashion scene, that I decided it was time I learned to surf. My career in fashion marketing ran the gamut from wildly creative collaborations with global industry icons to the unrelenting hamster wheel of newness and innovation. We had moved our young family to Los Angeles, and initially my need to be in the water was fueled by grief. I had just lost my youngest sister, Julia, to the devastating effects of mental illness back in Australia, and the ocean of sadness, shock, and sense of loss were debilitating. I felt closer to her when I was in or near the ocean, and like many of the women profiled in this book, I knew instinctively that the ocean would heal me.
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Some months later, while floating on my board at County Line (a rite-of-passage wave just north of Malibu), I came to a decision that has since steered my life: I would never go back to working for someone else s dream, on someone else s schedule. From this point on, my life and my career would be on my terms. Only then was I able to fully understand and truly feel a fundamental connection to the ocean, to nature itself. This was the moment that changed everything.
And so the healing began. I started my own business while caring for my young family, and in the stolen moments in between, I surfed. Lessons in Santa Monica soon turned into solo sessions up and down the Pacific Coast Highway, no matter the weather or conditions. I surfed dawn patrol, after school drop-offs, weekends, whenever I could get my fix, and when I wasn t surfing, I was dreaming about my next wave. I had become a waterwoman, and the obsession ran deep. Drawn to this new Californian community on the water, I dove back into surf culture. I found a home on Bay Street, the epicenter of Dogtown and Z-Boys, and traveled to Hawaii s North Shore. With firsthand experience of these legendary breaks, cult documentaries like View from a Blue Moon, Andy Irons: Kissed by God, Step into Liquid, Momentum, and The Endless Summer took on a more familiar perspective, and I found unexpected inspiration the deeper I went.
What I didn t find represented, though, were the women. So many of the stories were cast through the male lens, and the exhausted clichés of bikini-clad girls on the beach were ever present. Where were the empowered female surfers I met in the lineup? The generous, supportive, funny, determined women changing out of their wetsuits in the parking lot, getting ready for work after a two-hour session at Rincon? I
Some months later, while floating on my board at County Line (a rite-of-passage wave just north of Malibu), I came to a decision that has since steered my life: I would never go back to working for someone else s dream, on someone else s schedule. From this point on, my life and my career would be on my terms. Only then was I able to fully understand and truly feel a fundamental connection to the ocean, to nature itself. This was the moment that changed everything.
And so the healing began. I started my own business while caring for my young family, and in the stolen moments in between, I surfed. Lessons in Santa Monica soon turned into solo sessions up and down the Pacific Coast Highway, no matter the weather or conditions. I surfed dawn patrol, after school drop-offs, weekends, whenever I could get my fix, and when I wasn t surfing, I was dreaming about my next wave. I had become a waterwoman, and the obsession ran deep. Drawn to this new Californian community on the water, I dove back into surf culture. I found a home on Bay Street, the epicenter of Dogtown and Z-Boys, and traveled to Hawaii s North Shore. With firsthand experience of these legendary breaks, cult documentaries like View from a Blue Moon, Andy Irons: Kissed by God, Step into Liquid, Momentum, and The Endless Summer took on a more familiar perspective, and I found unexpected inspiration the deeper I went.
What I didn t find represented, though, were the women. So many of the stories were cast through the male lens, and the exhausted clichés of bikini-clad girls on the beach were ever present. Where were the empowered female surfers I met in the lineup? The generous, supportive, funny, determined women changing out of their wetsuits in the parking lot, getting ready for work after a two-hour session at Rincon? I
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Autoren-Porträt von Lara Einzig
Lara Einzig
Bibliographische Angaben
- Autor: Lara Einzig
- 2022, 272 Seiten, 250 Abbildungen, Masse: 20,9 x 28,6 cm, Gebunden, Englisch
- Verlag: Ten Speed Press
- ISBN-10: 198485979X
- ISBN-13: 9781984859792
- Erscheinungsdatum: 25.07.2022
Sprache:
Englisch
Pressezitat
The women in this book are my sea sisters and I believe that by sharing these remarkable stories, we inspire other women to make wiser and more empowered choices in their own lives. They learned from the ocean, from pushing themselves, trusting themselves, and dancing with this element. Water is the gateway to emotions and feelings. It offers the opportunity to be fully broken open, to be totally annihilated, to be brought to our knees in humility. These women and I have been defined, and are continually redefined, by surfing. What we learn each time we go into the water, we bring with us back to land and put that into the world. It s the ebb and flow of the tide, the giving and receiving and the giving again. Kassia Meador, former pro-longboarder and founder of Kassia+SurfKommentar zu "Women Making Waves"
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